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Zephyr Build

Discussion in 'Ford Fairmont' started by ZephyrEFI, Apr 20, 2018.

  1. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Heck i haven't seen anyone besides over at the shop and grocery store
    I'm getting a little Batty
    ZephyrEFI likes this.
  2. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    But, lemme ask you this. Would you rather have NO ONE or loud 4 cylinders to deal with? I think I'd rather have no one.

    I finished cleaning up the looks on my Focus. Before:

    ai.imgur.com_vzMTlR3.jpg

    After:

    ai.imgur.com_PgUx5Fc.jpg

    Took off all the goofy tacked on body kit on a body kit stuff. Got some good money for it too! Win-win. Now I'm STILL waiting on my clamp exchange from Summit. It's been almost a week since they got my return, they need to hurry up and send its replacement out so I can get this obnoxious exhaust off and cash in!

    As for the Zeph, who knew that replacing every single piece of the clutch system except the freakin' bellhousing, clutch pedal, and input shaft would still yield having to do fiddly work to make things line up and do what they're supposed to! I sure didn't! I've been trying to get my clutch cable adjusted properly, and it's acting like it's not disengaging all the way and slipping all the time. Not good. I talked to some people and I may be looking at clutch fork angle problem.

    I thought if you replace the flywheel with new, that meant you should have NO issues with proper geometry. A brand new clutch kit from the same manufacturer that made the factory one, and I still might be looking at pulling the g****** transmission back out to shim the brand new pivot ball?! F***!! :mad: I guess I should've just kept my old setup. It was heavy as crap, not to mention NOT put together correctly, but at least it WORKED!
  3. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Are you using the plastic gear driven clutch set-up under the dash type
    If so whomever thought that idea up made the job a lot harder
    I sold a lot of factory ones but i've never installed one
    You question on exhaust
    I always ran stock mufflers with bolt on dump tubes if I wanted to get serious
  4. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    What type of flywheel did you go with?
  5. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    It's an aluminum, one piece, non-self-adjusting quadrant. You have to adjust it at the firewall manually every so often. That is, if you can get it to where it needs to be to function correctly in the first place. My problem could be either it's not adjusted correctly, or something more serious like not getting full range of travel on the clutch fork caused by something out of whack inside the bellhousing.

    My flywheel is a lightweight type with the correct tooth count. SVE brand. Can't remember who actually made it. Good brand I think. It wasn't cheap.
  6. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    I can't see how a flywheel would do that unless you
    Hit the pivot when putting it in
  7. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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  8. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Well, what can cause problems is if you have your old flywheel resurfaced and it pulls everything towards the engine.
  9. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Man that shouldn't be that touchy
    Even resurfacing a flywheel you don't take that much off unless it's junk
    You didn't have any trouble putting the trans back in did you?
    What I mean you didn't have to use the trans mounting bolts to pull in in
    If it's slipping at least the clutch disc is installed the correct way
    Don't laugh I put mine in backwards at the drag strip once
    was in too much of a hurry
    ZephyrEFI likes this.
  10. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    This Video show how some types fly wheels will give you slippage
  11. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Did I have trouble? It was an absolute nightmare. I get it though, it can be hard to keep track of all my absolute nightmares. There are a lot.

    Since my engine is moved to the rear mount holes on my k-member, there is NO room between the tunnel and the bellhousing. It doesn't touch, but it's close. Certainly not enough room to maneuver an input shaft into a clutch and pilot bearing. And, there's not enough room to angle the back of the engine down so you can do it at an angle. Nope. It hits the firewall pretty much right away. The only way to do it is a lot of wiggling and praying. All the while hoping the stupid trans doesn't topple over and fall off the F***ING jack. Absolute. Nightmare.

    That's why I'm p***ed it might have to come back out. I don't think anything's backwards or upside down though. I was pretty careful about that.
    Dominick 1 likes this.
  12. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    I see what you mean about slippage, but I'm talking slippage all the time. Like as if the pressure plate doesn't sit close enough to the flywheel to keep the friction disc engaged. Could be a factor though that I need to set things farther away from the pressure plate fingers though...

    I looked it up, and mine is the billet steel one made by McLeod.

    As for an adjustable clutch cable, I'm going to see if I can make it work with Maximum Motorsports' system first before I consider that.
  13. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    OK
    Setting away
    Put a small flat washer between the flywheel and the pressure plate
    I don't think you are going to do any high revving racing are you?
  14. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    Well, a fellow enthusiast offered to come over and help me tinker with it, and we were able to get it releasing enough without pulling the trans, thank goodness. Some of the sloppy feel in the pedal turned out to be loose bolts on the firewall adjuster. That poor feel was a big factor in my not having much confidence in it doing what it's supposed to. Putting that spacer back in and spending some time adjusting the firewall adjuster paid off. Having someone else there to help really made a difference.

    But with that pretty much solved, I'd like to slap the car together and drive it now. I have the piece of h-pipe adjacent to the clutch fork out, so I've been considering drilling it for my wideband sensor. The trouble is, because of the way I grafted it back together, there is a definite exhaust leak there. Until now, it hasn't really been a problem, but I seem to recall that an exhaust leak can not only cause your wideband readings to be wrong, it can ruin the sensor. I would rather not ruin the sensor. But, I can't find exactly where I heard/read that so I can't prove it to myself. Maybe that's only true when you're using it to tune, which I wouldn't be yet, I don't know

    I think if I use some bandclamps I have on hand to secure the pipes together that might help with the exhaust leak, so then I'd be okay. Can't say for sure though without installing the pipe and trying it. But access to the rear bolt between the header and pipe is really bad, so I don't want to have to be putting it in and out and in and out. I guess it wouldn't be so bad to drill it on the car, there's good access there for that, but then I'd have to deal with the shavings being inside the exhaust....

    As for the Focus, I discovered after a long wait for it to be shipped to me that you cannot use a 2" bandclamp on a 55mm pipe. Apparently bandclamps have to match the pipe size precisely. So, that means more waiting for a 55mm clamp (something I didn't know existed) while my buyer for the exhaust is probably getting p!$$ed. Ugh.
  15. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Not sure if an exhaust leak would ruin the sensor. I assume the leak is upstream of the sensor?

    Metal shavings in the exhaust. Ehhh, they will be prone to rusting more easily than any other metal. There is a lot of water vapor that goes through an exhaust system. A lot! And likely shavings would get stuck in a cat or muffler. Won't damage the cat. The muffler may suffer from per-mature rust out. But that might be too extreme. Just never had that experience.

    Action
  16. Action

    Action Moderator Staff Member Respected Member

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    Come to think of it I know of a spark plug metal tip that has blown through the exhaust. The piece that broke off is too big to make it past the cat. And as far as I know that has not been an issue for that vehicle.

    Cats run very hot. And rusting that would take place would be burned because the operating temp of a normal cat is in the 1000 to 1500 range.

    >>>>>>>Action
  17. Dominick 1

    Dominick 1 Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    I don't think of what liittle bit of shavings he does will harm anything
    once he gets it on the road and drives it a bit
    they will pass through it
  18. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    I haven't added the cats yet, so that's one thing.

    I went and got myself a pipe expander, so that should help me get my joint to fit better. So, I suppose now I feel better about putting the sensor in, so I'll drill it with the pipe out.
    Dominick 1 and Action like this.
  19. ZephyrEFI

    ZephyrEFI Well-Known Member Respected Member

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    By the way, the leak is JUST downstream of the sensor, but what I understand is that the exhaust pulses can pull air in.

    Now I'm trying to decide if I should take the other side apart so I can try and improve the joint on that side so it doesn't leak either. We'll see. I'm potentially going on a cruise tonight, and it might be hard to get it together in time. Of course, there may be some other problem that comes along and causes me to miss it anyway.
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