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Discussion Starter · #1,041 ·
So, I tried a few things with the car today. I had the timing all jacked from whenever that was the last time I was trying to make it run well. I seem to remember, I changed it, plugged the SPOUT back in, and it was pretty happy after that. Until I turned the car off and started it again. Then it resumed it's crazy rolling up and down. The same thing happened today. I put it back around 12 degrees, and it smoothed right out, until I went to move it and it died when i put it in reverse. Started it again, and rolling like crazy. SIGHHHHHHHHH.

I plugged in the Quarterhorse today, and Binary Editor decided it didn't want to see it again. I restarted the computer and did some other things, and finally got it back. Why? I don't know. If I have to put up with this thing fighting me at random, that's going to seriously **** me off. Anyway, I plugged in the wideband, and we were good there. Shocking.

So anyway, I tried datalogging for the first time. I didn't save a log or anything, I just wanted to see what BE could show me the car is doing. I tried the different "dashes" they give you so you can watch things, but I guess you need to go in and do some setting up of things before it works the way it's supposed to. So, that was of limited use to me. Like for example, I guess different computers can call the same thing by different names, and you just need to go into yours and find what it calls it. Anyway, I noticed that the Idle Speed Control duty cycle was at 45% and I'm pretty sure that's higher than you want. BUT... my Air Fuel Ratio was pretty lean. Spent most of the time in the 16s and 17s. I don't know about you, but that doesn't make sense to me. If it's wanting more air, why would it be lean?

So, I guess next is base idle reset. I kind of feel like I tried this already too, but it couldn't hurt to try it again, I guess. I sure wish the weather would cool off, but nope. Even hotter tomorrow. Ugh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,043 ·
I took it for the first drive of the season. It was very short, and went mostly fine except it would kill when coming to a stop. I wanted to warm the engine up pretty much to operating temp before I did the base idle reset.

So, I did that. Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. unplug the ISC, and then start the engine. It wouldn't even start until I opened up the throttle with the screw. I had to open it quite a bit. Once running, I started backing it off, and went until it started rolling, and then opened it just a touch. It idles high now. Like 850-900. It really seems like this isn't the answer here. So anyway, you turn the engine off, plug the ISC back in, start the engine and let it run for 2 minutes with all accessories off. Turn it off for 2 minutes, start it again and run for 2 minutes with accessories on.

I took it for a bit longer of a drive after that. It didn't kill coming to a stop, but again, the idle is VERY high, so of course it's not going to. I think I figured out now that you have to go into Device Manager pretty much every time you plug the Quarterhorse in, uninstall it, and THEN plug it back in so it can re-find the stupid driver. Close out of BE or re-starting the computer might also be necessary. After all the riggamaroll, I did a nice long datalog for me to go back and look at. Hopefully it tells me something. I dunno.
 

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Firstly
I know nothing about the system you are using
But to me you have a sensor that is not communicating to the computer causing it to misread the idle of your car
Most fuel injection cars don't need warmed up to idle correctly
You should idle around 700 RPM in my thinking for a standard trans
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,045 ·
Yeah, that could very well be. I'd been thinking a KOER is in order. Maybe I'll move that up the list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,047 ·
I just had a little time today, so I thought i would use it to make an extension harness so I could use my little self tester while sitting in the car. Then I ran a quick KOEO. Here's what it gave me.
1 = ????
5 = ???? possibly 15, which is ROM test fail, which kind of makes sense with the chip in the computer? Maybe?
81 = Thermactor Air Diverter circuit failure. This system is not present on the car so this is no surprise.
82 = Thermactor Air Bypass circuit failure. Ditto.

Memory codes were confusing. It was 1, long pause 1 pause 1. The second time it was 1, pause, 1. So whatever that means.

More testing will have to wait until tomorrow. It's crazy hot again today, and I have other stuff to do.
 

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Is this EEC IV?

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Aren't the first number identifiers?

As far as ambients ....much lower in Phoenix because the humidity rolled in from the South. Temps just over 100 and humidity around 50% makes being outside rather unpleasant. Unless I go out pre-dawn.

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Discussion Starter · #1,051 ·
I don't remember. It's been a long time since I dealt with this stuff. I watched a couple of videos about how to do a KOER and you get one blink when it starts doing that, I guess. This one blink was after it did the test. I dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,053 ·
I'm surprised this site doesn't have more about how to run the test with a normal tester. It just has a few of the unusual circumstances like using the Continental's message center (gee, thanks!). And it doesn't say anything about identifiers either. That is the site where i found my answers about the codes I got.

I should also mention that I'm registered at Stangnet, but it seems to be pretty slow these days. I've asked a few questions over time and answers are hard to come by. It seems like my question are always ones that have never been asked either. Ugh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,055 ·
KOER codes today. Just had time to do a quick drive and test, but I've got a BBQ to go to.

44 = AIR system inoperative. No surprise again.
94 = AIR system inoperative. again. Or something about a transmission control circuit. I'm guessing that's an automatic thing.

Cylinder balance test code 99 = ISC needs to learn (Let idle for 2 minutes, Erase memory and retest). Or another thing about a trans control circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,057 ·
I asked my question on The Corral, and got an answer for how to disable TAB/TAD. The scalar "THRMHP" apparently asks whether the system is present or not. You just tell it not to do that. I did that, burned my tune onto the Quarterhorse, and re-ran my self tests. I got 11s for both KOEO and KOER, which is pretty dang cool, I gotta say. The idle may not be fixed, but I can bend the computer to my whim! (Evil Megatron laugh)

I got a 99 again on the cylinder balance test, so I guess that will have to be revisited later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,059 ·
Haha, that's kind of a haul.

You know, the more I think about it, the more I think it's just too soon since doing the idle reset for the cylinder balance test to run. So maybe I'll just wait until after the show in a couple of weeks and try again. It's got a nice lope on cold start, and seems relatively happy for now. It's not crazy lean while idling anymore, so that's something I guess. It probably won't blow up if I just drive it for a while. I've also heard that dirty injectors could contribute to my issues though.

It would be really nice to get the A/C recharged...
 

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I'm glad you are making progress
Can you do the A?C with one of those fill kits?
PS the postal truck is iin someones elses hands
 
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