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Discussion Starter · #1,061 ·
I'm glad you are making progress
Can you do the A?C with one of those fill kits?
PS the postal truck is iin someones elses hands
Shoot, I don't trust myself to do that right. The guy who made my conversion kit makes it seem like the exact right amount is super-critical. I don't know a ton about A/C systems, but I know what all the different parts do, and I know you don't just lose your freon for no reason, like that A/C Pro kit would have you believe. "Just put some more in there and you're good to go!". Well, no. You lost it because there's a leak. Adding it back just means you're flushing money down the toilet, and if you fill it too much, you'll blow more seals. Not to mention the environmental issues. It's irresponsible and misleading. What was I talking about? haha

Sorry you crapped out on the mail truck. Were you working on it for the post office?
 

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I had my A/C evacuated and charged Cost me $157.00
But you are righr about using those kit's
I hadn't checked mine for 5 years so it was just due
The postal truck was one that a contractor Friend of mine was wanting to use it for a tool truck and after looking at the undercarriage of it it was not worth the time and money to make it road worthy
No I don't work for anyone
i just help out over at the shop at times
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,063 ·
Here's one you old school guys should appreciate. I was asked on another forum what my manifold vacuum is. Here ya go. What do you think? Good? Bad? I have no idea. haha

 

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Not sure that is old school. But if you say so.
And your gauge scale is different than mine
Showing 17 which is the minimum I would want. Over 20 would be my goal

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Discussion Starter · #1,066 ·
I bought the only one they had, which was different from what their website said, but whatever I guess. Probably why it's scale is weird. Thanks for the chart.

I also did a smoke test for vacuum leaks. My EGR valve had smoke escaping after a little while of waiting. I guess that probably condemns it, which is stupid because I bought it new only a few years ago, and have put very few miles on the car since.
 

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I bought the only one they had, which was different from what their website said, but whatever I guess. Probably why it's scale is weird. Thanks for the chart.

I also did a smoke test for vacuum leaks. My EGR valve had smoke escaping after a little while of waiting. I guess that probably condemns it, which is stupid because I bought it new only a few years ago, and have put very few miles on the car since.
You may be able to clean the pindle valve on the EGR
I could have just gotten debree in it from all the test you have done
If the valve is rubber look at it and if it is seating properly it will have a nice round ring on it
If not replace it
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,069 ·
Yeah, I don't know if that's a good idea or not. If the computer is expecting a certain timing, it could cause problems if I do something different from that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,071 ·
That's true. I guess there's probably a way to tell it what to expect. I'm not very comfortable with all this yet. When you change something in the tune, there are usually a bunch more tables where you have to also change it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,073 ·
When I do that though, I'll have to tell the computer to expect something different, so it is a bit more complicated than just doing it. Hopefully I'll get the chance to try it soon.

Not a lot going on with the car. I put the new EGR valve in and it had about the effect I expected, which was not much.

I gave it a wash and a vacuum. It had probably 2 years' worth of dust on it so that's definitely an improvement. My power windows still don't seem to want to roll up smoothly or go where they're supposed to rolled all the way up. So that's frustrating. Also, the power lock actuator on the passenger door has come loose from the rod, so it no longer locks or unlocks that door.

I've been driving the car almost daily. I've put twice as many miles on it as last year. I've been noticing in my logs that the O2s act very differently. One switches a LOT while the other acts more like an OBD II after-cat O2. It's lazier about switching. I'm thinking i might have to replace them again, even though I'm pretty sure they were new in 2019. I looked back at my posts from then, and I don't think I ever said one way or the other, which is frustrating. I suppose I could look through my giant receipt file, but I'd rather assume they are old so I can feel better about replacing them. Anyone have a brand they like?

Also there's a "squeak-a, squeak-a, squeak-a.... " noise the engine makes. I thought it was just the belt fouled with antifreeze, but I put a new belt on it, and the sound is still there. I listened to the pulleys with my stethoscope and it's not any of those. Ugh.

The powers that be at Minnesota DMV gifted the car with a new nickname with my new plates.



Error 404. It fits.

I may attempt to verify the MAF curve today. We'll see how much time I get. The show starts tomorrow! It will be the car's first time back in 2 years. I guess last year it didn't even happen though.
 

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O2 sensor brand ....
Least expensive!

I have replaced about a dozen sets of O2 sensors on same amount of vehicles. All of them were replaced based on a maintenance schedule of every 100,000 miles the old ones come out and new ones are installed. There was never a performance issue and I do not monitor the electrical activity. Some vehicles no real difference was felt, but then I was not a driver. I have had two vehicles that I was the driver and one of those the difference was noticeable. Both in performance and fuel economy. The other vehicle not so much. The vehicles ranged in years from 1990 to 2010. I have used what ever brand I found and they are easy and cheap to find.

Just my experience. And my opinion is brand makes little performance difference as the sensors are electrical/chemical switches. Over time the signal generation slows down. It is the speed of the signal that is key for real time air fuel adjustments.

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Discussion Starter · #1,076 ·
I've never know an exhaust to squeak. I know it looks terrible right now. I just have it thrown together before I go in and do the work of cutting my new H-pipe to fit. Maybe it's a leak since things are misaligned?
 

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Could Be
I was thinking along the lines of a hanger rubbing
It could be anything
I hope it's simple
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,078 ·
Well, Error 404 made it to the show. I did my usual thing though where I wait to take it on a long drive until the first day of the show. It's a good 40-50 miles from home to the fairgrounds, mostly urban highway with few chances to pull off. I was white knuckle from the time I got a fair distance from home. And then a super loud rattle started. What the holy hell is that? I got off on an exit and stopped to take a look. After a few minutes I managed to figure out it was one of the tailpipes rattling against the bumper. Whew. That could've been so much worse. Between that day and the last time I drove the car a good distance, I'd had pretty much the whole car apart. So, as far as my paranoid brain was concerned, ANYTHING could go wrong. Back on the road, yet another rattle started. My windshield trim decided to come loose and flap against the body. Stupid thing. But I did make it. First long drive out of the way. Time to breathe a sigh of relief.



I came to all 3 days without incident. It was a fun show! The car IS a rattle trap though. My stupid exhaust is still cobbled together from last year when I'd intended to just take it on a few quick test drives. That's when the clutch thing happened. It's hanging far to low, and the tailpipes are crooked, but I haven't had the chance to deal with it. I'm really looking forward to getting the new h-pipe done with the cats and better fit. It has a hanger at the crossmember too, which hopefully helps with the rattling.

My stupid door windows still rattle too. I'm hoping when the dew wipes get replaced that might help with that. So irritating. I've replaced just about everything else, but with no window tracks, there's nothing to hold them in place! Stupid, stupid design.

Other than that, I've acquired a couple of ways to start looking at my MAF curve. Let's see if I can get this stupid thing to idle, and not run so lean all the time.
 

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First long drives are always stressful for sure.
Glad you made it there and back all 3 days and had a great time. I wish I had taken the time to get mine out of hibernation....but ive been so busy that I wouldnt have time to enjoy it other then constantly moving it to get it out of the way.
Last year I did drive it a lot of miles. So hopefully next year will be calmer for me.
 
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