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Discussion Starter · #1,081 ·
So yeah.... after I brought the car to the show the other week, I thought I would put the car on hold and focus on stripping and refinishing my deck. And then I broke my brand new belt sander. I should find out today if they have to send it out or not.

I went and got the A/C recharged though. I forgot to tell them the exact amount it takes. The Hose Wizards kit directions are VERY specific about a lot of things, and that's one of them. Oh well. I'm sure the shop knew what they were doing. It was a really hot day when I brought it back though, and the stupid f***er didn't even want to stay running when I'd let off the gas on the drive home. You can forget about running the A/C at a light. It ain't happenin'. I'd planned on hitting a show Sunday, but decided it wouldn't have even been fun to drive it since it was acting so badly.

I'm trying to decide if I should buy new O2 sensors. One switches a LOT more than the other, leading me to wonder if the lazier one is defective, and causing some of my problems.
 

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Do you have a code reader?
Your car may just need the heck ran out of it
With all of the testing you have done basically at a stand still
It would be good for you just to run the heck out of it
The spark plugs may be fouled also
Tie the loose things down and go for it
Good luck
Dom
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,083 ·
Yes, I do have a code reader. No codes last I checked about a month ago.

You might be right..
 

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Wierd things happen
I was over to the shop today and they just had an engine put in a GM product
and after that it won't shift gears and the spedomter won't work and the felow said no codes
I went out to it and pulled a p0722 code
That was related to shifting
So Who knows
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,085 ·
Little things. Sometimes that's all you can get done. I figured out why the stupid car vibrates so much at speed. Both tailpipes are touching the body over the axle. The right one is touching the gas tank too. Honestly, I don't know how Fox guys are able to avoid it. Mine seem to end up there no matter what I do. I'm considering putting urethane bump stops up there or something. That said, my new h-pipe should straighten everything out. I'll be much more careful fitting it. With the longer wheelbase chassis, it's up to you to get the length right. I think now my tailpipes are being pushed too far rearward and that's part of the problem. My new H-pipe has a hanger at the trans crossmember too to better help line things up.

When I was reinstalling the trans last year, I lost one of the trans to bellhousing bolts, so I put a hardware store one in there. At the end of the season last year, I found the original bolt, so I finally got around to swapping that back in today. Naturally, it was one of the top bolts so it was much more time consuming than it needed to be.

I got some Detroit Speed seat braces for through-floor subframe connectors. I test fit them today too and... I'm guessing their system must place the frame rails offset from where the original frame rails are. So, they don't line up. I need to bring them to a shop to have them welded in anyway, I think I'll just leave it up to the guy to determine how to drill or cut to make them fit.

Home Depot fixed my belt sander! They were reluctant to work on it since it's a Craftsman, but I showed them a Black & Decker that's just about identical besides the color it's painted that they sell. Apparently mine is new enough that it was made by Black & Decker, so they would have been able to get parts for it, had they needed to. I'm very grateful to the store manager, who accepted it for repair and made it happen. I talked to the repair tech on the phone and it was clear, he wanted nothing to do with it, haha.

As for the engine, yes I'm procrastinating, haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,087 ·
Well, the stupid deck took a lot longer than I expected. What else is new?

Not having had a lot of success with the car makes it hard to get back on it after time away. The other day, I finally made myself go out there and swap O2 sensors so I could look and see if it's one of the sensors acting weird, rather than something crazy going on with that bank. After looking at datalogs with it in both spots, it's the sensor. I got some new ones installed and made another datalog. They are pretty much working in unison now. You can watch the AFR rise as the RPMs fall with the rolling idle now. So there's that.

I might try working on the MAF curve. I'm a bit unclear as to how to do it though. I'm itching to work on the new h-pipe with cats. I'm so tired of how loud it is. I don't know if I'm more tired of that than how bad it idles though.
 

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Get rid of the exhaust noise then you can concentrate on the other things
On the MAF sensor there is a theory if you unplug it and it doesn't change anything it's bad
But with your diagnostic system of your car I don't know
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,089 ·
My MAF is a reman one I put in at the end of last year. Between it and the other one I'd had, it didn't seem to make any difference at all. Not to say they're not BOTH bad...

Yeah, I think I WILL work on the exhaust. I have to start test fitting my new h-pipe and then make cuts on both the catbacks and the h-pipe itself to make it fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,091 ·
Yeah... I'm pretty much resigned to the fact that I need help with this thing. I think there's something mechanically wrong causing the whine when it runs, and causing the rolling idle. And especially if that's found to NOT be the case, I need to have an expert tune it. My head being where it's at, I just don't have the brain capacity or time to fight with this anymore. I'm going to take it to a repair guy, and then probably a tuner guy.

That said, I'm still particular about how I want the exhaust done, so I need to get under there and cut some pipes so they sit where I want them before I do, and then I can have them welded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,093 ·
Test fitting my new h-pipe. I really like having the hanger at the trans mount. I'm fairly certain my old setup was at least crooked with nothing to anchor it there. I couldn't figure out how to put the bracket in at first though. Upside down? Backwards? Trial and error. It makes sense in my head that the front pipes that run from the headers to the H should be stock length. I shouldn't have to modify those because the drivetrain didn't change length. Right? So far, things are still lining up pretty wonky. I quit for the day and went and got some new hardware to make mockup a little easier. I think I crossthreaded one of the header flange bolts last time though, so that sucks. I couldn't even use normal bolts at the rear header flange positions though because there was no room to put them in. I had to use smaller nut and bolt combos. I guess I'll have to do the same there. I could be crazy, but it almost seems to me the socket on the pipe end (as opposed to the ball on the header end) is too big to fit well on the header. I hope I'm wrong. Also, it's hard for me to tell how critical it is that that joint be straight.

Anyway, I should have more time to mess with it today. I have to at least have it bolted up for the drive to the repair shop for my idle to get fixed.
 

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Piecing together an exhaust system is easier with a lift. Not sure if you have that.

Typically a stock system does not have a hanger until in front of the rear axle area and then a second at the tail end. The reason is the exhaust system when assembled is a rigid one piece part that has little flexing.

How are you piecing things?
Welding or clamping

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Discussion Starter · #1,096 ·
That makes sense about the factory hangers. I think Mustangs may have had hangers there though. There is a flange joint after the h-pipe on them, and my exhaust is all Mustang stuff.

My new h-pipe has flanges before the H too, which is nice. Makes it easier for installation and stuff. For mockup I should only need to cut the catbacks to dial in the length, I hope. I'll have my guy do the cutting on the header-to-H pipes to put the cats in there. Then I'll have him weld everywhere there isn't supposed to be a joint. If I was doing it, I'd use clamps, but my last adventure with that was kind of a mess.

No damper on my trans.
 

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The damper on the rear of the transmission and hanging off of the rear axle was used as needed for certain power train configurations and out in the field. Eventually is was used in all Fox body cars but that wasn't until the early 1980s. The company recognized it was cheaper to put on all cars instead specific models with NVH issues


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