Welcome to the FFO!

You might pull codes. That is why the CEL is flashing.

The control circuit from the ignition switch passes from there to .... (from memory)
Through a fuse
Transmission range switch
To a relay

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Found this on the net for a 2008 Escape.

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Its still retaining old codes from before the rebuild even when cleared.

It has 2 new codes P0706 and p0708 for high range transmission range. Would this be the cause of no crank/no start?
So then i tried manually put the transmission through all gears and attempting to start with no luck of cranking or starting.

I checked and bypassed the fuses for testing and all gave same result of no start.

 

Its still retaining old codes from before the rebuild even when cleared.

It has 2 new codes P0706 and p0708 for high range transmission range. Would this be the cause of no crank/no start?
So then i tried manually put the transmission through all gears and attempting to start with no luck of cranking or starting.

If the transmission range sensor is bad, you can clear codes and those codes will come back.
If the transmission range sensor is bad, the engine may not crank. If you want to verify that, at the range sensor the two wires that go in based on diagram, Key on, transmission in park, there should be 12v+ on both wires. In a drive gear or reverse there will be 12v+ only on one wire.

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I do not.
The wire color in the diagram I posted be the same. It is only one year off.

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Alright. Sooo it helps if thr transmission connector is connected correctly ( was upside down. )

Now it will turn over but does not start.

 

Looks like this is externally mounted and has 6 pins.

This may help too.
Bing Videos

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After checking. The crank /no start issue now.

Seems like I'm not getting spark to any of my plugs. All fuses and relays are good.

 

Any other codes?'

You sure ignition is the issue? Spray in some carb cleaner and does the engine fire up in any way?

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Only 3 codes. P301, p302, p300 but these were there before the rebuild

I've tested coil packs and they ohm out at .000, and when plugged into thr harness and test light plugged into coil Pack when starting it gets no light pulses. And then I tried with coilpack and plug out. No spark on the plugs either
Or am I testing this wrong?

Fuel pressure is strong and solid, fuel injectors are spraying.

 

Those are generic misfire codes that could be fuel or ignition.
Should clear them.

Wiring diagram from the net.
The note is wrong as the voltage of the electronic engine systems is 5 volts.
Key on engine off is there voltage on one side of the coil?
If no is the PCM relay clicking on?
If no is there power to the battery junction box?

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Clear codes but they remain there.
Checked power at coil pack plugs. I'm getting between 5-12v ( my tester leads aren't small enough to get a solid contact )

 

The voltage is good.
These are ground side switched.
Meaning the coil will generate the spark when the ground side is grounded completing the circuit.

The trigger for that is the PCM.
And the PCM makes that happen by getting signals from sensors.
Cam and/or crank sensors for the most part. To a smaller degree the throttle position sensor

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Crank sensor is tested good.

What OHM should cam sensor be?

I checked injextor pulse and coil pulse and not getting any signal.


I appreciate the time for helping!

 

What OHM should cam sensor be?

I do not know. I think the resistance varies.
Should be 5 volts in and likely variable out as the sensor moves with the cam/crank.

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How to Test 2 & 3 Wire Camshaft Position Sensor w/Multimeter (easycarelectrics.com)

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That is good. That 5v is from the PCM. Also called reference voltage.
The wire back to the PCM modifies that 5 volts to a lower amount as the engine cranks.

If there is a 3rd wire that is ground.

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Indeed!!!

Just very confused as to why fuel injector and coil packs aren't getting power

 

If the PCM thinks the engine is not cranking (no signal from cam sensor) it will not fire off either.
The PCM is very specific on when to squirt and fire. (That was not the case in early fuel injection .... think 1980s)
The PCM will need to know when each cylinder comes up for compression for fuel and ignition to work.

Engine not spinning? No fuel and ignition events.
You know the engine is cranking. The PCM does not, without signals from cam and/or crank.

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I'll double check the cam sensor. Will also pull cover off to verify cams are moving

. Crank sensor is working as the obd2 scanner is pulling RPM of 250-300.
Shows ignition advance timing for CYL is at 10° when trying to crank.

 

The wire color in the diagram I posted be the same. It is only one year off.

I don't see a diagram from you

 

I'm checking sensor tomorrow. Work has been something else

 

Same for me.

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Alright got around to checking cam sensor

KOEO on the cam sensor.
Purple and green wire has 12v
Purple and blue wire has 0.08 V.(installed

)
Purple and blue wire has. 0.00v ( not installed /still hooked up to wiring harness

)

Purple and blue wire has 12v when making contact with metal(

)

Green wire is ground

 

Follow the testing in the link in post #18.
Scroll down to the 3 wire sensor.
You will need a second person.

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All that checked out fine and within ranges.

Pulled valve cover off. Notice the top side of cam chain was loose as crap.

Pulling timing cover off setting TDC and resetting time.

Will update when completed with results!

Thank you much everyone who assisted! Will see you in few days with some updates

 

Interesting. Didn't you say the engine had been rebuilt?

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Indeed it was, I rebuilt it myself over the course of a few weeks checking clearances and timing, getting tons of new tools and stuff lol.

 

Alrighty. I got done fighting idk what. It kept me in bed longer than expected.

In the mean time I was speaking to one of my buddies who rebuilt one of these before and said there was a certain way I had to set timing that involved setting a pin somewhere, and spinning engine till it stopped and then setting cams and all in time using the cam tool etc.

But I tried searching everywhere for this timing guide. With no luck. Do you happen to have this somewhere by chance?

Everywhere I look or see. Just says set TDC on Cyl 1 and set the cams lock the bar in it make slight adjustment to Cams if need be to have the chain lock in place.

 

I have none of that as I do not have the factory shop manual for 2009.
I do have factory shop manual for my 2006 Lincoln Navigator (and Ford Explorer)
Yes there is a specific way to "Time" the engine with the cams, chains and gears/phasers.

This may help assuming you have a Duratec 4 cylinder
Procedure for timing Ford Duratec 4 cyl. - YouTube

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I have none of that as I do not have the factory shop manual for 2009.
I do have factory shop manual for my 2006 Lincoln Navigator (and Ford Explorer)
Yes there is a specific way to "Time" the engine with the cams, chains and gears/phasers.

This may help assuming you have a Duratec 4 cylinder
Procedure for timing Ford Duratec 4 cyl. - YouTube

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I do its the duratec 2.5L

Ill take a peak at it

Thanks for the help!

Good looking car in the profile Pic!